Identifying your Natural Hair Colour is THE MOST IMPORTANT factor to achieving the right Hair Colour. It is your Natural Hair Colour that determines the right Developer needed with the selected Colour. Always identify your Natural Hair Colour from the roots, NOT the ends.
2. Existing Colour.
Before Colouring, you need to honestly examine your Hair history over the last 12 - 18 months. Any Colour that has been used with a Developer / Peroxide has the ability to affect the outcome of the Colour you are wanting to be. For example: If your Hair is Coloured Dark and you want to be Light, you cannot put another Permanent Hair Colour over the top, as it will not do anything. To achieve this, you have to use Colour Remover or follow the Hair Lightening Process. If you have a Semi Permanent Colour on your Hair, it will affect the result of your new Permanent Hair Colour.
3. Percentage of Grey Hair.
Grey Hair has 0 pigment, which means that Permanent Hair Colour looks and works differently compared to any other Colour. My Hairdresser Permanent Hair Colour covers 100% of Greys, with our Natural’s Range being specially designed for best results with Grey Hair. When Colouring Grey’s, it is important to establish the percentage of Grey’s. If there is more than 50%, or 5 out of 10 Hairs, are Grey then we advise to use the My Hairdresser Natural Permanent Hair Colour Range with 20 Volume Developer. If there is under 50% Greys, use any desired My Hairdresser Permanent Hair Colour.
4. Hair Thickness.
There are 3 main types of Hair Thickness’ that have different resistance and effects to Hair Colour. Fine Hair has the least thickness, although that doesn’t mean that there isn’t a lot of it. It is generally the easiest to process Colour and therefore can be easily over processed. It can also be more susceptible to damage. Medium Hair is considered as normal or most common and does not need any special requirements when Colouring. Thick Hair is the thickest and strongest. There is generally a lot of it and can be quite heavy and hard to control due to its volume. Thick Hair can be harder when Colouring. It can be resistant to Hair Colour and may need a little more effort or processes when Colouring. It also generally needs more Product to cover the entire head of Hair.
Not sure which type of Thickness your Hair is? Here is a simple test. Get a Hair band and see how many times you can wrap it around your Hair. If you can wrap it around your Hair over 4 times, then you have Fine Hair. If you can wrap it around your Hair 3 times, then you have Medium Hair. If you can wrap 2 times and it feels tight, then you have Thick Hair.
5. Hair Porosity.
Hair Porosity is the Hairs ability to absorb moisture - the more moisture the Hair can absorb, the more Porous the Hair is. The amount of Porosity determines how the Hair will accept Hair Colour. Low Porosity Hair can be quite shiny, particularly when its a Darker Colour. It is generally referred to as healthy. Low Porosity Hair can make Colour processing harder to penetrate as it resists the Colour process. To cater to this, alternative Colour Processes may need to be applied to get the desired result. Normal Porosity Hair generally means low maintenance Hair. It is generally good for Hair Styles, and will Colour with a predictable result, when using the normal instructions. Normal Porosity Hair will however damage over time, with repeated Colour Processes. An occasional conditioning treatment should be apart of the Hair regime to keep up the Hair’s condition. High Porosity Hair is caused by damage to the Hair through processes such as over Bleaching, chemical processes or the environment. Grey Hair is Highly Porous, Frizzy Hair is generally a sign of High Porosity Hair. High Porosity Hair will absorb Colour very well and very quickly, as the Hair Shaft is very open. High Porosity Hair can be high maintenance and generally needs a lot of TLC in terms of regular treatments and conditioners. Products high in protein are particularly good. Want to know if your Hair is Highly Porous? Do the following test: Take a couple of strands of your Hair, and drop them into a bowl of water. Let them sit for a couple of minutes. If the Hair is floating, it has low porosity. If its sinking, it has high porosity.