Hair Colouring can offer an array of results, which is why we have Colour Consultants on hand to help you at all times. So we asked our Colour Consultant team to poll their most common Hair mistakes they get asked and what advice they give to help solve and prevent them.
Problem: My Hair has gone Green.
“That’s right, my Hair is Green, dull and seriously subdued.” Green Hair arises for two common reasons:
1. When you are going from a Cool (Ash or Beige) to a Warm (Gold, Chocolate or Bronze) Hair Colour.
2. When you are Colouring from a Light Hair Colour down to a Darker Shade.
When you are changing from a Cool to Warm Hair Colour stop using all Toning Products and allow your Hair to be washed through before re Colouring. Choose a Shade with intense Warm Tones such as Chocolate or Golden Colours to fully absorb and take over the Cool Colour. In some cases, you may need to Colour your Hair twice for the Colour to completely absorb into your Hair.
It’s the same when you are Colouring from Light to Dark. Lightened Hair has been emptied of most of its Natural pigment so when you re Colour with a much Darker Colour Shade, your Hair will cling to whatever pigment it can to rebuild itself. If your Hair doesn’t absorb enough pigment it will leave you with a Green tinge. To prevent, use a Colour filler first, over your Lightened Hair, so it can reabsorb the lost pigment, creating a base that your Darker Colour can build off.
Problem: My Hair did not Lighten.
“I applied my Colour, processed my Colour and post washing was shocked by my lack of results — as in my Hair hasn’t changed at all.”
This problem can be two fold. Firstly, you cannot Lighten Hair that already has Colour in it. Use Colour Remover to clean out your Permanent Hair Colour to take you back to your Natural, so you can start your Lightening process again. Alternatively, your problem sounds like a case of a dodgy Developer decision. If your Developer isn’t strong enough to support your Hair Colour, it won’t Lighten your Hair enough. Tip: Read more about which Developer is right for you.
Problem: I have Hot and Bright Roots.
“My ends are one Colour and my roots are hot and bright.” Generally, because you’ve chosen a Lighter or Warmer Colour for your Regrowth compared to the rest of your Hair or you’re Colour mixture on your Regrowth is developing quicker than the rest of your Hair Colour thanks to the heat generating from your scalp that speeds processing up.
You have one main priority — evening out your Hair Colour by calming down your hot Roots to match the rest of your Hair. You can do this by Toning with a Toner Kit, Cool Ash, Beige or Natural Hair Colour Shade mixed with a No Lift Developer. Tip: Only mix these Colours with a No Lift Developer, as you don’t want to Lighten your Hair any further.
Next time you Colour, keep your Colour choice consistent and matching the rest of your Hair. If you are Colouring your full head of Hair, apply the Colour mixture to your Regrowth last.
Problem: My Hair is heavy in Colour
“My Hair looks extra dark and dull and even though I keep applying Colour through my ends every time I Colour, I can’t seem to keep the vibrancy up through my ends.”
The weight you’re experiencing is Colour Build Up from applying Colour on top of Colour on top of Colour that consumes your Hair, making your Hair look overfull and dull as well as unhealthy. Don’t wait any longer, your Hair is in desperate need of a refresh. Apply Colour Remover over your Coloured Hair to begin cleaning out your Colour Build Up, which may need multiple applications depending on how long you have been Colouring for and the Colour Shade (Darker Colours take longer to remove). You may find it more useful to concentrate on just the ends of your Hair after multiple applications to clear out the stubborn Colour.
To avoid Colour Build Up in the future, apply your Colour using the Colour Top Up Technique.
Problem: Yellow, Orange and Red Tones.
“My Hair is really Warm and brassy.”
Tone, Tone, Tone with a Toner Kit. In the future when Colouring avoid Warm — Gold, Chocolate or Bronzed — Shades, swapping them for Natural Shades. If you’re more interested in a Cooler looking Colour try an Ash or Beige Shade.
Problem: Colour Bands Through my Hair
“I have blocks of horizontal Colour bands through my Hair.” Colour Banding is a consequence of chopping and changing Hair Colours as well as overlapping your Colour mixture on your Regrowth and already Coloured Hair.
Start with Colour Remover to clean out the Colour built up in the bands and re Colour once it has been cleared out. If you are still struggling with banding, paint in Highlights and Lowlights as vertical lines that will break up your horizontal banding and give your Colour dimension.
Problem: I’ve just Coloured my Hair and it is way too Dark
“I want to undo what I just did, my Colour is way too Dark or vibrant.”
When you like your Colour but it’s just a touch too much, apply Colour Remover over damp Hair to slightly knock the wind out of your Colours sails without fully Colour Removing.